Chiang Mai is losing its "green and clean" image

Chiang Mai is losing its "green and clean" image—and its identity—thanks to Bangkok’s efforts to turn it into the "headquarters" of northern Thailand. Chiang Mai was once famous for its history and "timeless" beauty. But times are changing. Ancient pagodas are overshadowed by high-rise buildings. Mountains are hidden behind flyovers and skyscrapers. And local people, it is said, are losing their identity. Tanet Charoenmuang, a political scientist at Chiang Mai University, blames the government in Bangkok. In its efforts to "modernize" the 700-year-old city, for economic reasons, it has over-centralized, he claims. Chiang Mai, founded in 1296 by King Mengrai, was once an independent center for the spread of Theravada Buddhism, renowned for its Buddhist scholarship and literature. It was also the capital of the northern Thai Kingdom known as Lanna. By comparison with Bangkok, it still has a reputation for "greenness and cleanness" and for the friendliness of its people. But according to Dr Sirichai Narumitrekakarn, a well-known architect and a lecturer at Chiang Mai University, billboards, high buildings and cluttered sidewalks are "spoiling the city’s character and identity." He also criticizes some of the major projects of government agencies, including a big concrete road bridge near the airport. The highways department, a central government agency, says the overpass will solve traffic problems in Chiang Mai and improve tourist facilities. Critics reject this, arguing that it will undermine the image of Chiang Mai as a historic city. The Lanna Architectural Association, an NGO, argues that the flyover "eats up the city’s open space". The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) has also criticized it. The authority says tourists visit Chiang Mai not merely for its history and culture but also to enjoy nature. The overpass will threaten tourism, which is the "fundamental business" of the city, says TAT. Many local groups were against the overpass, arguing that better public transport was the answer to traffic congestion. Even worse, according to critics, the highway department did not inform local people about its plans until late in the day. The central problem, according to Prof Tanet, is that "everything is run by the government in Bangkok"—and has been for more than a century. And this is the case not only for political and administrative organizations but also for religious ones. Monks were appointed by heads of religion in Bangkok. The flyover, like many city roads, is Bangkok property; even the Ping River is owned by the Ministry of Agriculture. The government, says Prof Tanet, wants Chiang Mai to be the "headquarters" of northern Thailand. Currently there are over 200 central government agencies in the city—all of them run by Bangkok. On Doi Suthep, a mountain located near Chiang Mai City and the most sacred place in the province, there are 43 central government agencies. Because they use so much water, says Prof Tanet, the powerful Huay Kaew waterfall on Doi Suthep has turned into a "urinating" dribble over the last 20 years. Officials at all levels are also appointed by Bangkok—including the governor of Chiang Mai. So governors know little about the city, have no interest in it and don’t stay long before being transferred to Bangkok. A few things, says Prof Tanet, remain "uncentralized"—including culture, art, costume and food. "We are not told what to wear and what to eat," he says. But even culture is being centralized "bit by bit". The local dialect has almost disappeared. In schools and universities, it is not taught: Bangkok decides the curriculum. But Chiang Mai’s problem is also Thailand’s. According to Prof Tanet, the country suffers from "fragmented centralization". He adds: "Everything is run by the central government. We have nothing—we are losing our own identities. We need to decentralize our country, and we have finally started to do it. But it won’t be easy."