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More than a week after the powerful cyclone Nargis struck Burma, Rangoon—once proudly called “green city”—is still struggling to survive. "Rangoon is now a ghost town," said a resident. It’s certainly no longer a “green city”—most of its trees fell victim to the cyclone. Piers on the Rangoon River have collapsed into the water. Most parts of Burma's old capital remain without electricity, although residents told The Irrawaddy that power could be obtained by bribing the authorities.

Monks and local residents are clearing the streets of storm debris—a task that doesn’t belong in the military’s area of responsibility. 

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Prices for food and other essentials are rising constantly. Rice and gasoline have doubled in price, while candles and salt have tripled. Basic construction materials are unavailable. "I was told I must vote ‘yes’ (in the referendum) if I wanted a zinc roof," a Rangoon resident said.

The city's landmark Shwedagon Pagoda was badly damaged in the storm. The International Herald Tribune said more than 1,000 precious stones—jade, rubies, emeralds and sapphires—fell off the golden pagoda, although the 76-carat diamond atop its spire stayed in place. The pagoda complex was closed for five days, for clearing, cleaning and repairs.

Rangoon general hospital also lost large portions of its roof during the storm.

Despite the devastation, Rangoon escaped the scale of suffering inflicted on the people of the Irrawaddy delta. The government says about 400 people died in Burma’s largest city—a tragic toll in any natural disaster, but small compared to the huge loss of life in the delta region.