Correspondent Anne Fletcher meets former activists of the 88 Generation who made new lives on the other side of the world The first shots Tin Maung Htoo heard, however, sounded like machine gun fire from armored cars sweeping round both sides of the Sule Pagoda on that August night, 19 years ago. Then the soldiers facing Tin Maung Htoo and his companions opened fire, the bullets from their guns hitting the ground, ricocheting up and striking home. “Some students started running and then falling on one another,” Tin Maung Htoo recalls. “I also ran and ran and ran.” Among the protesters who had massed in Rangoon streets the whole day was 21-year-old Toe Kyi. By 10:30 p.m. that night, sensing a terrible climax to come, the leader of his 100-strong group asked him to take half the young demonstrators back to safety in Sanchaung Township. One protester, Ko Naing, was doubly wary of the danger. Jailed for seven days after taking part in a march near Inya Lake on March 16—also violently broken up by government forces—he left the City Hall area about 5 p.m. to escort a group of teenagers home to Hlaing Township. Both Toe Kyi and Ko Naing, then 24, were in the crowd on Prome Road the following month, on September 19, when again the military fired on protesters. Those demonstrations were followed by the coup that brought the present regime to power. Today, after claiming UN refugee status in Thailand, all three men have built new lives in Canada, a country free but very foreign to those who grew up in the tropical time warp of pre-1988 Burma. From 1989 to 2005, Canada took in 1,085 government and privately sponsored Burmese refugees. Last year, some 2,000 Karens, accepted from the Mae La Oon and Mae Ra Ma Luang camps, began arriving. Toe Kyi, his wife, Nyunt Nyunt Than, and their 2-year-old child arrived in Canada in 1997 and were at first resettled in Cranbrook, a town of 18,500 people, deep in the mountains of British Columbia. It was November, when winter holds Canada in an icy grip. The snow lay deep, the temperature was colder than anything they had ever experienced before, and the winter sun was rising late and setting early, making for long, dark nights. They spoke no English, and there was only one other Burmese family in Cranbrook. “I felt very, very terrible,” Nyunt Nyunt Than recalls. “I was fighting with my husband every day.” Ko Naing had an easier time of it when he arrived in Canada in 1998. It was August, and he was resettled in the cosmopolitan city of Vancouver. After three months of language training, he found his first job, in a plant nursery, before moving on to become an apprentice carpenter. Tin Maung Htoo ended up in ontario, eastern Canada, in 1996 after a Canadian embassy official arranged his exit straight to the airport from the Bangkok detention centre where the political firebrand had spent three years. “I was stubborn. I was young. I was only thinking about how to bring democracy to Burma,” he says today. That stubbornness helped him meet the challenge of studying for a political science and economics degree from the University of Western ontario, where he graduated in 2003. Now he’s executive director of Canadian Friends of Burma, working energetically for the restoration of democracy and good governance in his homeland. Toe Kyi and Ko Naing, however, find their political ardor has been dimmed somewhat by the factionalism that plagues Burmese exile groups and by the day-to-day demands of family life. Toe Kyi and Nyunt Nyunt Than left Cranbrook after one year for Saskatoon, a city of 200,000, in the middle of the Canadian prairie. “We were very lonely,” Toe Kyi says. Although even colder than Cranbrook, Saskatoon had a sizable Burmese community, now numbering about 100. Toe Kyi started work with a car repair company. Nyunt Nyunt Than gave birth to their second son and continued her struggle to learn English, becoming so frustrated she says she would sometimes slam her books shut in anger, vowing never to open them again. She also found herself disconcerted by Canadian family life. “I was very uncomfortable with the children,” she says. “No one controls them.” She was also distressed to see elderly people living alone, their children having long since left home. She found work looking after elderly people. “I don’t have parents so I like to help them,” she says. Neighborhood life, too, was very strange to a Burmese couple used to Asian conviviality. Ko Naing waves his hand in the direction of the street in front of his apartment building. In Burma, he says, he would know the goings-on of everyone. “Here, the people next door don’t know what happens and they don’t care.” He and his wife, Marlar, whom he met at Thingyan celebrations in 1999, have woven tight bonds with several other Burmese families, attempting to recreate the warmth of Burmese life for her son, 11, and their 19-month-old daughter. He was fortunate to find a wife in Canada, where Burmese men substantially outnumber Burmese women. Others have gone back to Thailand and even to Burma itself to find what the community dubs “parcel brides.” Canada is hard on youthful marriages forged in the jungle or in the refugee camp. Without elders to keep a couple in check and without the understanding that democracy has its own rules, a quarrel can get out of hand, the police are called, a husband ends up in jail and divorce is the next step. And, although at least one city, Vancouver, has a monastery with a resident monk to teach their children, parents watch their offspring little by little grow away from Burmese ways into Canadian ones. On the plus side, Canada’s comprehensive health care and education systems are praised by everyone. Toe Kyi still marvels at the freedom his family had simply to move from Saskatoon to Vancouver last year, with no questions asked. With enough money in his pocket, says Ko Naing, he can buy anything he wants. And open prejudice is rare. “People are very kind and tolerant,” says Tin Maung Htoo. “I’m happy now,” say Nyunt Nyunt Than, firmly. But a strong undercurrent of sadness runs through the 1988 generation for what they’ve lost and what they couldn’t change. “I’m very sorry for our people in Burma,” says Toe Kyi. Ann Fletcher is a Canadian journalist based in Vancouver
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