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Music Keeps Moei Market Alive

By The Irrawaddy

July 27, 2007—It is the low season in Mae Sot’s Rim Moei border market, a jumble of shops located beside the Thai-Burmese Friendship Bridge that spans the Moei River to Myawaddy in Burma.

Shopkeepers often complain about the lack of customers at this time of year, and the few that wander sleepily through rows of cheap Chinese electronics, foodstuffs and traditional Burmese goods don’t spend much money.

But the ebb in sales hasn’t dimmed the spirits of Ko Paul and friends, who attempt to liven up the quiet market atmosphere by performing songs from a small shop that sells Burmese-made guitars.

Ko Paul, in his mid 30s, says he sells about 10 guitars a day. “My customers are from refugee camps, Burmese migrant workers living in Mae Sot and local Thais,” he said, puffing serenely on a Burmese cheroot.

Born of Thai and Burmese parents, Ko Paul speaks fluently in both languages. Young Thai customers, mostly students, drop by frequently to hear the music or mull through the merchandise looking for that perfect 6-string.

“I love music,” Ko Paul said enthusiastically. “I also play violin.”

Ko Paul’s guitars are reasonably priced, and he claims they are better made than their Thai equivalents.

Prices start at around 350 Baht (almost US $12). More professional models can be ordered and specially made for 1,000 baht ($30).

“Some Karen refugees who are professional players order quality guitars,” Ko Paul said. “They don’t like buying cheap guitars.”

If you’re not in the market for a guitar, that shouldn’t stop you from dropping by for a friendly chat or a cheroot. Ko Paul welcomes all visitors with unpretentious hospitality, and he’s usually willing to take song requests.

He can play most of the popular Burmese and Thai songs, while one of his friends—eager to display their skills—can do a fair rendition of “Hotel California,” a song that can usually be heard somewhere in Thailand at any hour of the day or night.

Apart from shoppers and hangers-on, Ko Paul’s shop also attracts “real refugees,” as he calls them. They are orphans and young children from Myawaddy across the river from Mae Sot. Most of them are undernourished, and Ko Paul entertains them with songs and sometimes food and snacks.

The resettlement of increasing numbers of Karen refugees to Western countries might put a dent in Ko Paul’s client base, but he remains upbeat.

His love of music and the warm hospitality of his shop are sure to keep both Burmese and Thai coming back.


 
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